Luxury and Classic Fine Watches | Ruling Rolex Watch Models

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Ruling Rolex Watch Models

by Mike Moon

Rolex is a luxury watch line that shows the class and success of the men and women wearing them.  It's an obsession of highly visible personalities to have a precious watch to perfectly complement their wardrobe.  The Rolex models that have ruled the wristwatch history are:

Rolex Datejust 'Thunderbird' (model 1625)

The Datejust models were introduced with a coin edge bezel, which later were replaced by a new fluted bezel along with a larger crown.  In the mid-50's, Rolex introduced the Datejust (model 6605) with the cyclops, or the magnifying bubble that is placed over the date on the watch's crystal.  In 1956, Rolex released a Datejust model called the "Thunderbird" (model 1625).  This watch featured a Turn-O-Graph gold Bezel.

Originally, Rolex offered the Datejust in 18kt yellow gold.  After seeing much success, these rolexwatches were then also offered in white gold, platinum, or stainless steel.  By 1962 the two-tone Datejust models were being worn. Also, at around this time, the Datejusts began to be offered with the options of a Jubilee bracelet, an Oyster bracelet, or a leather strap.


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Additionally, Rolex replaced the original four-digit case reference number with a five-digit number.  Also, around this time, Rolex introduced the Oyster Date which is very similar to the Datejust.  The only difference being that the Oyster Date is 2mm smaller than the Datejust.  By then, the Datejust offered in addition the "midsize" which is 80% the size of the original.

Case Size:  Mens: 36 mm,  Midsize: 31 mm,  Ladies: 26/29 mm
Lug Size:   Mens: 20 mm,  Midsize: 17 mm,  Ladies: 13 mm



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Submariner (model 6204)

Rolex underwent demanding development and experimentation, testing the Submariner prototype in deep water to a depth of 3,150 meters (10,336 ft).  The watch withstood the hardest tests, surviving sub-zero temperatures, and the wear and tear of expeditions.  Rolex launched the Submariner (model 6204) at the Basel Fair in 1954 although it is believed that it was actually released in late 1953 and was based on the Rolex Explorer.  The name "Submariner" was not officially registered until around 1960.  When introduced, the Submariner was powered by the A296 movement but was then replaced with the 1030 movement and Mercedes hands, which are more elongated than the modern day versions.  In 1955, the model 6538 replaced the 6204, and the 6205 by the 6536 respectively.  Model 6536 then became 6536/1, featuring a chronometer version of the 1030 movement.  New Submariner models featured a new scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and an upgraded depth rating of 1,000 feet.

Case Size:  (All models): 40 mm
Lug Size:   (All models): 20 mm


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Cosmograph Daytona (model 6239)

Rolex was best known for developing the Oyster and Perpetual, but not not well known for pioneering chronographs. However the success of the Cosmograph impelled Rolex to be in the position of being the ultimate "sportsman's" watch.  These rolexwatches were soon given the name "Daytona" after being sought out by some of the biggest names in auto racing in one of the biggest racing communities of Daytona Beach, Florida.  In the beginning, the Daytonas were available in two dials, either in black with silver registers or cream white with black registers.  Then, after Paul Newman was seen wearing a Daytona in the movie "Winning", the dials adopted the name "Paul Newman".

Case Size:  Men's (Early Models): 37 mm,  Men's (Late Models): 40 mm,  Men's (Late Models): 20 mm
Lug Size:   Men's (Early Models): 20 mm


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Rolex Day-Date (pink gold or rose gold)

The Basel fair, the new Day-Date model (model 6511), had a window at the 12 position spelling out the day of the weekm and the numbered date was shown at the 3 position.  Initially introduced as a niche model, the first model (6511) lasted just over a year before it was replaced by 6611.  The 6611 featured the new and improved caliber 1055 movement with its free sprung Micro-Stella balance and was the first to be labeled "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified".  That certification guarantees that the watch will remain accurate to within +/- 3.0 seconds per day.  With very few design changes over the years, the first modification to the Day-Date was to add the "hack" feature in 1972.  This allowed the second hand to be stopped dead while the winding stem was completely pulled out, thus allowing the time to be accurately synchronized with a reference source.  The Day-Date was available in 18kg gold or platinum.

Case Size:  (All models): 36 mm
Lug Size:   (All models): 20 mm

Mike Moon

Melrose Jewelers is an importer and wholesale distributor of genuine pre-owned Men's and Ladies' Rolex wristwatches & Italian 18k/diamond bracelets for Rolex watches.
mike@melrosejewelers.com    888-574-1250


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